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G.Hammer and I were married August 10, 2013, and spent our honeymoon backpacking through Montana’s Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, then climbing Montana’s highest mountain, Granite Peak. We agreed then we should be in the backcountry for all our anniversaries, too. In 2014 we were backpacking in Glacier National Park and Greg surprised me by packing in his wedding tie and an ipod with our wedding song, and we danced under the stars and I cried from happiness. In 2015 we hiked to Amphitheater Lake (yes, Greg wore his tie again) in Grand Teton National Park with our nephew Blake (Log Riiiiiider!), and in 2016 our anniversary marked the first day on the Tour du Mont Blanc.
The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is a +/- 105 mile circuit hike around the massif of Mont Blanc which spans across parts of France, Switzerland, and Italy. There are 10 or 11 mountain passes to get up and over depending on the route, with an elevation gain/loss of 32,800 ft. In other words, it’s tough as sh**. But there are warm, cozy huts with comfortable beds and hot showers waiting for you at the end of the day, and someone to make you dinner every night, and breakfast every morning, and there is nearly always another hut where you can stop for lunch. The views are stunning, of course, and just when you think you’re all alone the sound of cowbells echos across a valley, bringing you back to your alpine reality. It’s worth the pain.
We started in Champex and hiked clockwise. I found this map on the internet.
We heard about the TMB last summer when we were hiking Iceland’s Laugavegur Trail. Several people mentioned it to us, and the general consensus was that it was a must-do. I had heard of it before, but I assumed we’d have to be millionaires to do a hut hike through the Alps, so we never gave it much consideration. But we loved the huts so much in Iceland that when we got home I started researching the TMB right away. Turns out you don’t have to be a millionaire.
We bought Kev Reynolds’ Tour of Mont Blanc for my Kindle so we could research beforehand and carry it along on the hike. He gives suggested itineraries and trail descriptions, as well as ideas on how to get to one of the many potential starts of the hike, and a packing list. Kev is a great resource, but once we were hiking we quickly learned to ignore him, particularly about the difficultly of a certain stretch, or the amount of time it should take to get from hither to thither. I mean, Greg and I are not novice hikers, and we can move when we need to, but some days we actually doubled Kev’s suggested times. Not like, in our minds, but our actual hiking time. I had an emotional meltdown just about every day because I thought there was something physically wrong with me. I can’t keep up with suggested hike times! I should give up hiking! I’m too tender-footed to ever step on a trail again! I’m too weak to carry a pack! Now we think Kev’s times must be for straight-up hiking with no breaks, so… don’t get discouraged. The suggested hike times on the TMB trail signs are massively accurate, sometimes down to the minute, so… go off those. Kev’s book offers plenty of other pertinent/interesting info and we’d definitely recommend picking up a copy at the library or a used bookstore to start planning your trip. We have a few personal recommendations at the end of this post, but in the meantime, please enjoy our photo journal and hiking tips for one of the world’s most beautiful trails.
Day 1. Champex-Lac to Gîte de La Léchère- 11.35 miles, 7 hours 6 minutes
Happy 3rd anniversary!! Don’t let those happy faces fool you- we started hiking the morning after we flew into Zurich, then took four trains and a bus to get to our Airbnb in Champex. #jetlagisreal
And we’re off! Right away there were lots of hand-carved decorations and trail markers.
Potable? You decide.
We hiked down down down through the villages of Issert and Praz de Fort.
No one does cute and quaint like the Swiss.
Our future residence? Huh, Papa?
There once was a Greg in the deep, dark woods. A Jamie saw the Greg and the Greg looked good.
The village of La Fouly is a real delight, and it has a glacier just sitting above it. It would be a good first stop.
Okay, this is our future residence.
It was a long miserable day to Gîte de La Léchère. We were both cranky and I started getting blisters on both heels and it was all uphill at the end. This hut was a most welcome site.
In Gîte de La Léchère we all slept right next to each other. Better get in early to claim a bottom bunk.
All the hut meals are served family style, which is really fun because you get to know people and enjoy trail talk.
Some huts are self-catering but all ours offered half-board- a bed, dinner, and breakfast.
We took camp shoes to wear inside, but all our huts provided them anyway so feel free to save the weight.
Every hut meal had a starter,
a main course,
and a dessert. The food was all very rich, but delicious.
Day 2. Gîte de La Léchère to Rifugio Bonatti- 12.42 miles, 8 hours 22 minutes
All you could eat chocolate granola and corn flakes, wtih bread and jam for breakfast. We took the alternate route to La Peule. It was a steep up up up right away.
I continued to struggle with hot spots on both heels, but what a dandy of a day!
We stopped at La Peule for a light lunch where we met a 76 yo surgeon, still crushing it on the trail. #lifegoals
The views were incredible from La Peule to Rifugio Elena.
Is there anything better than clouds on mountains?!
Up and over the Grand Col Ferret for our first view of Italy. It was unbelievable.
A snow had fallen overnight but was quickly melting.
We had a second lunch and soaked up the scenery.
It was a loooong miserable walk down to Rifugio Elena, where they only had hole-in-the-ground toilets. Unfortunately I had to go #2 and more unfortunately when I stood up I dropped my sunglasses straight into the hole. This is how I looked the rest of the hike.
After dropping my sunglasses I didn’t have much will to go on, and we debating staying at Elena. After a quick powwow we decided we surely had another three hours in us to Rifugio Bonatti. We chugged an Emergen-C, shared a chocolate bar, and set out. Unfortunately we missed our first trail to Bonatti, then went ahead and hiked past the second and last trail too, so we had to turn around and go back uphill to find it.
Bonatti! We were so afraid to miss dinner, so Greg charged ahead and I took it slow on my hot spots. On the final stretch up the one on my right heel burst. Wah wah wah.
Greg came back to take my pack, like the angel he is, and inform me we hadn’t missed dinner! And how about that view?
We got settled and even had time for showers!
Meat balls and mashed taters for dinner. It was amazing, and I could’ve eaten four more servings.
Dirt cup thing for dessert.
Bonatti is huge and awesome, and we were glad we kept hiking for it. When it came time to pay we didn’t have any Euros and they didn’t take credit cards. Oops. The front desk guy ended up letting me pay him on his personal PayPal. What a guy. Important side note: Take out francs and euros before you start hiking. But also take a credit card or two. We paid as many as we could with cards, of course.
Day 3. Rifugio Bonatti to Courmayeur- 7.58 miles, 4 hours 43 minutes
Yogurt and cereal and breads and coffee for breakfast, and another dandy day for our hike to Courmayeur.
It was a lovely traverse to Bertone, and a chilly morning turned nice and warm.
The wildflowers were amazing.
We lunched at Bertone, and the nice and warm got nice and hot. We started the looooong hike down to Courmayeur. It was miserable, but I was glad not to be hiking up in the heat. Reading back through this post I realized every day so far was miserable for me. I’m not trying to sugar-coat anything- it’s tough!
The Mont Blanc Tunnel goes from Chamonix, FR to Courmayeur, IT. You should Google the 1999 tunnel fire; you may never drive through one again.
Courmayeur, Italy. We didn’t make any reservations in advance and spent a couple of hours wandering aimlessly, trying to find wifi and cheap accommodations. Do your research in advance, you’ll want to be out enjoying a nice meal asap.
Kev suggested the Hotel Edelweiss and it was just great, everyone was super friendly and there was free wifi and a massive free breakfast.
After finding a room we went out for an early dinner, then went back to shower. Then we went out again for second dinner. We were enjoying dipping our bread into the oil and vinegar I poured in this bowl until a server came over and said “Sorry, sorry, sorry. This is for cigarettes.” We were dipping into the ashtray. Even better, Greg was wearing his ‘Don’t Hassle Me I’m Local’ shirt. We’re still laughing about it.
Day 4. Courmayeur to Maison Vielle- 3.73 miles, 3 hours 19 minutes
We took our time leaving Courmayeur and even debated staying a second night (which we’d recommend), but the Edelweiss wasn’t available. We decided to move on. We used the wifi to line up all our remaining huts and the next one we were hoping for wasn’t available until the following night, so we decided to split the days and hiked just 3.7 miles to Maison Vielle.
My blister was terrible so I hiked in sandals. It was hot and dusty and steep, and I took my sweet time.
MV was just great, but super crowded for lunch.
They wouldn’t let us check in until the lunch crowd left so we sat out back and gazed upon THE Mont Blanc in all her glory.
MV had two horses and three ponies, and they were all naughty. They tried to eat our lunch and our backpacks and one nearly knocked me over. But we still liked them.
We shared a delicious dinner with the Millers from Alberta- our kind of people. Spaghetti for starters, then roast beef and creamed peas for the main, then a small cake covered in whipped cream and caramel for dessert. We loved Maison Vielle.
Day 5. Maison Vielle to Rifugio Elisabetta Soldini- 6.62 miles, 5 hours 19 minutes
Can you believe this weather? MV gave us a great breakfast- bread and nutella, plus yogurt and granola. Most places we stayed only offered bread and jam for breakfast, which is typical for Europeans and #totesatypical for the Warckens. I eat three eggs and bacon, ham, or sausage every morning and I’m quite accustomed to the protein. Next time we’ll take some kind of meat and a jar of peanut butter for the breakfasts.
The Mont Blanc massif has lots and lots of glaciers, and you know how the Warckens feel about glaciers. I thought that little hut down there was Elisabetta.
And I was real happy about it.
Only that little hut wasn’t Elisabetta at all.
Elisabetta is the little spot on top of the hill under the puffiest clouds. Kev estimated it should take five hours from COURMAYEUR to Elisabetta. It took us nearly nine hours over two days to hike that distance. Ol’ Kev, he must be a killer hiker. Or maybe he uses a hoverboard.
When we got to Elisabetta they couldn’t find our reservation. “We have Gary. Are you Gary?” Luckily they had two beds in the dorms.
The bunks were three stories high, and while the beds were fine the bathrooms were nasty the whole time we were there. There was never any toilet paper or soap, and there was trash all over the floor. Next time we’d spring for a private room in the newer, nicer wing.
At least the crocs were organized. Risotto, pork roast and green beans for dinner, and chocolate pudding for dessert. We ate with a group of older American women who gave us all their leftovers. Dope.
Day 6. Rifugio Elisabetta to Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme- 10.31 miles, 6 hours 29 minutes
Breakfast at Elisabetta was the worst yet- bread and cookies and muffins. I mean, who can function on nothing but sugar for breakfast?
Our first views into France! At Elisabetta I asked if there were any sunglasses in the lost & found I could have. They had a whole pile to choose from.
The pass is actually the border between Italy and France. Oh, the places your legs can take you.
Trying to avoid getting zapped.
Up and over another pass.
Chamois! Cham-wow!
There’s an optional side hike from the top of the pass to the top of Tête Nord des Fours. I let Greg go up alone while I napped in the sunshine.
Bonhomme.
We stayed in the Denali dorm. Greg and I met in Denali!
Some places are more organized than others. After beef tibs and polenta for dinner we played Bananagrams with some new friends. Not easy for ESLs.
Day 7. Bonhomme to Miage- 11.97 miles, 7 hours 6 minutes
Bread and jam and porridge for breakfast, and obviously another gorgeous day for a hike.
Art on the mountains.
We came across this fairytale land just off the trail. There were aerobics and a circus tent and pony rides and paddleboats. It was bizarre.
And I really wanted to go.
Camp Nowhere?
We stopped for a quick snack in Contamines- a baguette and futella (we chose not to afford the real stuff). Contamines is a real town and might be worth an extra night.
It started to thunder as we headed up and out of town.
Trying to make it to Miage before the rain started.
Tomorrow’s hike is that zig-zaggy line up to that saddle. Yikes.
Miage.
It was THE BEST.
Miage was dark and cozy, had hot showers, and a rip-roaring fire in the dining room. I was in heaven.
Dinner was amazing- a huge locally grown salad, then a massive omelet stuffed with cheese and potatoes, then an assortment of local cheeses, then blueberry pie and hazelnut ice cream for dessert. And did I mention that fire?! Lady Campfire was in her element.
And we got a beautiful sunset out of the deal.
Miage ended up being our most favorite. A must-stay.
Day 8. Miage to Les Houches- 8.33 miles, 5 hours 46 minutes
Corn flakes, along with more bread and jam for breakfast!
The pass looked harder than it actually was. The hike down the other side was WAY worse.
The train tracks go impossibly far up the mountain.
Looking back to the pass we just conquered.
Our first view of Chamonix. I could already smell the McDonald’s.
I ended up having six open blisters on the hike, and this was the best treatment I found- plain bandaids with silk or duct tape holding them on. After this hike I vowed to never hike in tall boots again.
We made reservations in Les Houches and were planning on splurging on a private room with no meal service, but when we got there we were informed there were no private rooms and it was half board only. We got to our room and I just cried and cried. I didn’t want dinner! I wanted McD’s! Screw it, we took a bus into Chamonix for first dinner.
Chamonix is bustling and ritzy, but just look at those glacier views! We split a 20-piece and large fries and I tried to get some sausage cheese biscuits to go but they didn’t serve breakfast at this McD’s! Can you imagine?
I hope we make it back here one day to hike or ski. Chamonix would make for a lovely European vacation. Back to Gîte Michel Fagot for second dinner- brushetta baked with prosciutto for starters, then pork roast with green beans and carrots.
Day 9. Les Houches to Flégère- 10.72 miles, 8 hours 36 minutes
Our first dreary morning! I didn’t document what we had for breakfast, but I’m guessing it was bread and jam.
Chamonix would make a great start to the hike, but you’re immediately going UP either direction you take out of town. Some people bypass the first-day ascent and take the tram instead for a nice traverse hike. Not a bad idea.
Building new ski lifts.
This ended up being a super long day, but very beautiful and tons of blueberries to pick and eat along the way.
Our first view of Flégère.
We’re nearly there! Flégère reminded me of the Old Faithful Inn- it was very old and quirky and I loved it. Dinner was super delicious- tuna pasta salad for starters, with assorted meats and a huge bowl of potatoes au gratin loaded with ham for the main, and a choice of apple pie, chocolate mousse, or local yogurt and blueberries for dessert. I ate all my food, plus everything the neighbors couldn’t finish. That yogurt and blueberries alone is worth the hike.
Day 10. Flégère to Trient- 13.3 miles, 9 hours 52 minutes
Special K and fresh-baked croissants for breakfast! Kev said it should be about a 7.5 hour day, so we planned on an even 15.
A cloudy morning quickly burned off into a gorgeous, sunny day.
Mont Blanc.
This stretch of trail was definitely our favorite.
I fell.
We took the low road toward Vallorcine to avoid going over the Col de Balme, but ended up turning off at les Montets and hiking up to the Col anyway. It was not easy, and neither of us are sure it was the right decision.
Dam.
Another 3 hr 45 min to Trient?!? How is that possible?!
Looking down toward Switzerland. I can’t even tell you what a miserable descent it was into Trient. I was ready to crawl by the end.
We got to our bed and breakfast just in time for dinner with a bunch of Frenchies. A salad for starters, then fondue and potatoes for me, and pork stew and rice for Greg.
One of our dinner mates asked how I was doing, and I told him I was exhausted. He said he was, too, and I asked where he had hiked from that day. “Bonatti”. As in the Bonatti we had left seven days ago. WHAT?! That’s 33 miles, people, up and over the Alps. I was utterly humbled. Until all those Frenchies toasted us, and all Americans, for our time in Normandy. Then I was completely and utterly humbled.
Day 11. Trient to Champex- 9.8 miles, 5 hours 7 minutes
Yogurt and granola for breakfast, and I ate three bowls. It was a rainy hike into Champex, and the only day we would make Kev’s suggested time. We beat it by about 10 minutes, actually. We decided he must’ve had diarrhea that day.
We got a room at the same Airbnb in Champex and there were four young Israeli men there, practicing Shabbos. G and I had never witnessed that before and didn’t know they couldn’t cook or use electronics. One of them asked me to flip on the bathroom light for him and I was like “It’s right there.” He was like, “Yeah I know, I can’t touch it.” But you know what they could do? Get totally ripped on beer and whiskey. Religion. We went down to a local pub for spaghetti and fries, then spent the rest of the evening teaching our housemates Bananagrams and Texas Hold ‘Em. It was a good ending to a long, beautiful hike.
Things We Used
Personal:
1 quick-dry towel each
3 oz Sunscreen
3 oz Shampoo
3 oz Body Wash
2 oz Leave-in conditioner (especially useful when hot water supplies were limited)
3 oz Body lotion
4 oz Bronner’s for washing clothes and shampoo/body wash backup
2 bras (I like to have one to hike in, one to lounge around in)
Ball cap
Things We DID NOT Use
Snacks. We took jerky and turkey sticks and cheese and almonds and pistachios and chocolate and regretted evey ounce of it the first time we stopped at a hut around lunch time.
Rollerball perfume (never underestimate my need to smell good)
Cologne samples
Bug spray
Travel pillow
Big down jacket
Comb
No-Rinse Shampoo
2nd, 3rd, 4th bottles of lotion
Sewing kit
Clothespins
Coffee mug
Swimsuit (you think Euros care if you swim in your underwear? Or naked for that matter?)
2nd pair hiking pants
3rd, 4th pairs socks
3rd, 4th pairs undies
Safety rope
Multi-tool
External charger (even the huts with solar power let us charge our phones, but if you’re a battery freak like me, you should probably carry one)
Things We Used But Could’ve Done Without
Deodorant (WHAT?! We showered every night.)
Extra camera battery/extra battery charger
Slippers/hut shoes
Face-specific sunscreen
Eye mask
Lightweight down jacket
Lip balm with sunscreen
2nd camera + charger
Tripod
Headlamps + extra batteries
Bananagrams
Farkel
Greg’s Kindle (I used mine everyday)
Silk sack (we only used this in airports or on planes)
Don’t be an over-packer; you’re not going to die out there because you’re missing a few luxuries. Next time we’re just taking day packs and I’m wearing low hikers. We’ll take a few days to recover from jet lag, and a rest day or two on the trail. We’ll get a private room every few days and will go out to eat every chance we get. We’ll take peanut butter and turkey sticks for breakfasts, and some instant coffee to go with our post-hike tea. I don’t think we’d stick with Kev’s itinerary next time, but take it easier on the first few days and go longer as we get stronger. We wouldn’t hesitate to take a kid, as we saw tons out there in their tiny boots and little zip-off pants. We had unbelievably great weather in the middle of August, but would be happy to go after Labor Day.
Cost
Lodging $1427.41
Transportation $510.02
Food $181.51
Misc (map) $20.43
Total = $2139.37
Mind you, we flew standby to and from Zurich, so our transportation costs were super low. Without airfare we averaged $1036 per person, about $74/day. It was worth every penny and a whole lot more. Can we do it again, Papa?
